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Prada turns cultural backlash into collaboration with Indian artisans

Prada turns cultural backlash into collaboration with Indian artisans
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Prada is set to launch a limited-edition line of ‘Made in India’ sandals priced at $930, following criticism earlier this year over designs that resembled traditional Kolhapuri chappals. The Italian luxury fashion house confirmed that 2,000 pairs will be produced in Maharashtra and Karnataka in collaboration with state-backed artisan development bodies.

Lorenzo Bertelli, Prada’s chief marketing officer and head of corporate social responsibility, told Reuters that the collection aims to blend Indian craftsmanship with Italian manufacturing techniques. The sandals will be available from February 2026 in 40 Prada stores worldwide and online.

The initiative comes six months after the brand faced a backlash when images from its Milan show circulated widely, with Indian artisans and policymakers accusing Prada of appropriating a centuries-old craft. The company later acknowledged that its design was inspired by historic Indian footwear and began discussions with artisan groups.

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Prada has since signed agreements with the Sant Rohidas Leather Industries and Charmakar Development Corporation (LIDCOM) and the Dr Babu Jagjivan Ram Leather Industries Development Corporation (LIDKAR). The three-year partnership will include training programmes in India and short-term placements at Prada’s Academy in Italy. Bertelli said the project would require a hefty investment and guaranteed that artisans would receive fair compensation.

Kolhapuri chappals originate in Maharashtra and Karnataka and are traditionally crafted by communities from marginalised backgrounds. Industry representatives hope that Prada’s involvement will revive interest in the craft, improve income levels and encourage young artisans to continue the trade.

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“Once Prada endorses this craft as a luxury product, the domino effect will increase demand,” said Prerna Deshbhratar, LIDCOM managing director.

While the collaboration marks a notable shift in Prada’s engagement with Indian craft, the company confirmed it does not plan to open new fashion stores or establish manufacturing bases in India in the immediate future. According to Bertelli, further expansion could take place within three to five years, describing India as “the real potential new market”.

India’s luxury sector was valued at around $7 billion in 2024 and is projected to rise to $30 billion by 2030. Despite this growth, the market remains small compared to China’s, which generated the equivalent of nearly $50 billion last year.

Many global brands have entered India via partnerships with corporate giants, but Prada maintains it would prefer to expand independently, even if it requires more time.

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