“Amra Khaibar bi pari, abar khilaibar bi pari”- a true “Dhakaiyya” knows what this means. This rather popular phrase translates to “We love to eat just as much as we love to treat others”— a fact about locals from Puran Dhaka. Old Dhaka is a living gallery of exceptional food culture.
An exquisite blend of culinary traditions that covers different regions and eras, such as, Persian, Mughal, Nawabi, and Bangali. Over time, these distinct flavours and food styles intermingled with local essence and evolved into an elevated expression.
From home kitchens to restaurants that have operated for over decades now, the legacy runs deep, through generations. Every kitchen cooks a personal story, every meal emanates a unique tale and every morsel fosters a strong sense of connection. Old Dhaka is not only an architectural haven but a culinary paradise, unlike any other.
Aromatic Biryani and smoky Kababs— typical yet excellent food items, are not the only delicacies you can trust on. The culinary grandeur indeed goes far beyond these. While commons like Nanna’r Biryani, Bismillah Kabab Ghor, and Beauty Lacchi remain crowd favourites; it’s the narrower lanes that harbour tastier treats.
Take the cramped, hot “Bakorkhani” shop down the lane for example. It bakes these crispy, ghee-layered breads— originated during the Mughal period, now paired with spicy curries or milk tea is a popular breakfast choice. Additionally, special customisations to Bakorkhani are also offered— topped with Paneer or stuffed with Jhura Mangsho, these make delectable snacks!
In the evening, piping hot Aloo/Daal Puri with desi pickles, served with hot tea hits the spot like nothing else. And then there is “Kheta Puri”— a lesser-known type of bread; which is a street-food item, thoroughly enjoyed by the locals. It’s thick, filled with spicy, mashed potatoes and usually dry-fried on hot pans.
Then comes a personal spread of the classics. Best found during occasional fairs, originally in Chawkbazar, “Maasher Bora” is a lentil-based deep-fried snack, these puffy, crispy shells are undoubtedly addictive; I am confident that you can’t just stop at one! Remembering kababs, a Puran Dhaka exclusive is “Shutli/Shuta Kabab”, often paired with Sheermal— a rich, sweet, saffron-flavoured flatbread, stays true to its name.
The preparation of the kabab is quite fascinating— solid beef chunks are intricately threaded and marinated with lots of different spices, then grilled to perfection with frequent brushings of ghee and gentle turnings to ensure even cooking. Its crumbly texture and unparalleled flavour, tender enough to melt in your mouth will leave an unforgettable taste in your palate. During the month of Ramadan, Shuta Kabab also makes a delicious add-on to the famous Puran-Dhaka-style Muri Makha.
Speaking of Ramadan, the iftar spread in Puran Dhaka is as incredible as you can imagine. There are so many variations of Iftar items, it’s safe to say that one must attain this experience, at least once in their lifetime. The bustling streets come to life, celebrating cultures, heritages and rituals like no other.
Amongst the extraordinary offerings, the very famous one— “Boro Baaper Polay Khay” is a mixture of complex and conventional flavours, which includes goat brain, puffed rice, flattened rice, chickpeas, eggs and chicken pieces, you name it. The offerings lie in a spectrum, from straight-out-of-pan fritters (made with onions/leafy greens/seasonal vegetables, etc) that are distinguishably flavoured to Kacchi Biriyani, Tehari, Kababs, the list goes on.
Diverse selection of soul-cooling beverages, such as, lime-tamarind juice, creamy Badam er Shorbot, Rooh Afza Shorbot, Borhani, refreshing sugarcane juice, and a variety of fresh fruit juices make their rightful places on the extensive menu.
Let’s not forget the timeless distribution of desserts in this rather aristocratic hub. Piping-hot, crispy mota Jilapi or crunchy, juicy chikon Jilapi— pick only one? I bet you can’t. Besides, Chhanar Amitty is another great choice. Cold Falooda, velvety Firni made with thickened milk, and freshly made sweetmeats are a sweet tooth’s fantasy of cheat-day pleasure.
For the record, a Puran Dhaka native is known for an immaculate sense of hospitality and generosity. With all that being said and felt, the extravagant culinary culture of Puran Dhaka deserves to be honourably cherished and preserved. After all, it’s more than what meets the eye— it is memory, emotion, and identity. And what good is such richness if future generations fail to experience it through a wholehearted, emotive lens?
