Tangail’s centuries-old saree weaving tradition earned global focus after Unesco recognised ‘Tangail Saree Weaving Craft’ as world’s Intangible Cultural Heritage yet the artisans remain underpaid.
The announcement came on Tuesday at the 20th session of UNESCO’s Intergovernmental Committee for the Safeguarding of Intangible Cultural Heritage, held at India’s Red Fort in Delhi.
The designation places Bangladesh’s culturally iconic Tangail saree, renowned for its handwoven finesse, delicate motifs and superior thread quality, on the global heritage map, bringing pride to weavers and traders who have preserved the craft through generations.
Historians trace the spread of Tangail’s weaving tradition to the late 19th century when the Basaks, ancestral weaving families originally from Dhaka and Dhamrai, settled in the region. Over time, Tangail’s master weavers refined distinctive weaving techniques, colour palettes and patterns that set their saree apart.
Today, the craft flourishes mainly in the weaving villages of Pathrail, Chandi, Bajitpur and Putiajani, where families continue to operate handlooms at home. From soft silk and cotton jamdani to baluchuri, gas-silk, dhanshiri, do-tari and resham saree, Tangail supplies a dazzling variety across Bangladesh and abroad.
Weavers say at least 10,000 artisans in the district rely on saree weaving for their livelihoods, with peak demand during Eid and Durga Puja.
Artisans told TIMES that Tangail weaving is an inheritance learned early in life through hands-on practice. Many households run five to ten looms each, crafting saree entirely by traditional methods.
The process begins with preparing thread, followed by setting the loom and weaving intricate borders, Tangail’s signature element crafted with zari or silk. Depending on the design, a saree may take seven days to one month to complete. In rare cases, elaborate saree can take up to six months.
But despite the global fame, weavers say their wages have declined over the years. Where a worker once earned Tk700–800 per saree, many now receive only Tk600–700 with a rising production cost.
“We work from morning till evening, yet struggle to survive,” said weaver Anwar Hossain.
Another weaver, Narayan Chandra, who has been in the craft for 23 years, said, “Saree-making no longer pays enough. Many artisans have already left the profession, but we continue because this is our ancestral craft.”
Saree traders say raw material prices have increased sharply, while saree prices have not kept pace. “A saree that once cost Tk500 to produce now costs over Tk600,” a seller said.
Buyers, too, say affordability has declined. “The saree we bought for Tk200 in our teens now cost many times more,” said a customer in Tangail. “We buy mostly during Eid or Pahela Baishakh.”
Despite the challenges, traders and designers see the Unesco recognition as a turning point.
“If the government supports exports, Tangail saree can reach new markets worldwide,” said saree designer Neel Kamal Basak. “This honour will significantly boost global demand.”
Tangail Saree Traders Association President Raghunath Basak said the local industry faces problems with capital, technology, design innovation and marketing.
“This recognition must be used to revive the craft,” he said.
Tangail Chamber of Commerce President Benjir Ahmed Tito echoed the urgency. “We have already lost many skilled weavers. Now foreign buyers will seek handwoven Tangail saree. We must improve standards.”
Tangail Deputy Commissioner Sharifa Haque said the administration is working to preserve the quality of the iconic craft.
“Tangail’s saree heritage is rich in history. We are committed to promoting and protecting it.”
With Unesco’s recognition, Tangail’s weaving craft enters a new chapter, one that brings pride, hope and renewed responsibility to safeguard a tradition woven by countless hands over generations.
