Everyone needs a reset from the monotony of the daily office grind, and I am no exception. Seeking a break from a frantic schedule, I set off for a getaway to Bandarban and Cox’s Bazar.
This travel feature is the first of two parts, focusing specifically on the serene heights of Bandarban. I hope sharing my journey provides helpful insights for fellow travelers.
Departure and logistics
Before leaving, I secured AC bus tickets with Hanif Enterprise for Tk1,000 per person and booked our stay at the Agarang Resort in Mirinja Valley online. It is crucial for travelers to keep essential documents ready, such as photocopies of National ID (NID) cards.
For students or professionals, copies of institutional or office IDs are also required, as these are collected at Army checkpoints throughout the Chittagong Hill Tracts (CHT) for security purposes.
Our journey began at 11:45pm, departing from the Motijheel terminal bound for Chakaria. The service was commendable, including two rest stops at Chauddagram in Comilla and Chattogram.
Ascent to Mirinja
We reached our destination around 7am. After a local breakfast of paratha, eggs, dal, and vegetable stir-fry, we walked 30 minutes to the Chakaria bus stand. From there, travelers can find “Chander Gari” (local jeeps).
While the government-fixed fare is Tk80 per person, we opted to reserve a vehicle for Tk120 per head for the 40-minute drive to Mirinja Bazar.
As the locals say, “this is where it gets difficult”. The hills begin directly from the market, with sloping roads leading upward. While a Chander Gari can transport you directly to the resort gate, those seeking adventure can choose to trek.
While locals can complete the climb in 30 to 40 minutes, inexperienced trekkers like myself require more time; we started at 9am and reached the resort by 10:30am.
Life in the clouds
Upon arrival at the resort, we were welcomed with drinks. After our rooms were prepared, we rested briefly before enjoying a lunch of white rice, vegetable stir-fry, dal, and boiled egg curry.
The environment was breathtaking, defined by lush greenery, clear blue skies, and fresh mountain air. We ended the evening with a chicken barbecue, music, and conversation under the moonlight.
The following morning, we woke at 5am to find ourselves literally floating in a kingdom of clouds. After soaking in the view, we departed for Lama Bazar. A short trek from the resort led to an auto-rickshaw, which took us directly to the market.
The Lama Bazar and Matamuhuri experience
After a local breakfast of rice, alu bhorta, egg curry, and dal, we headed to the nearby Matamuhuri River ghat. We rented a boat for Tk1,000 for an incredibly scenic journey between “Shukh Pahar” and “Dukh Pahar.”
This route included a 20-minute visit to a Marma indigenous village before seeing the “Shada Pathor” area and returning to the ghat. Back at the market, we took some time to roam through Lama Bazar and bought some local fruits.
Exploring Alikadam Next, we hired an auto-rickshaw for Tk1,200 for a round trip to the Alikadam Caves, which included breaks in between. The driver was exceptionally friendly and listened to our every small demand.
The hour-and-a-half journey involved another Army checkpoint where NID copies were required.
Exploring the caves is a unique, albeit strenuous, experience that requires trekking barefoot through cold water. Local boys served as guides, leading us through the cave for 30 minutes to reach a hidden waterfall.
The cave also features iron ladders for those wishing to explore deeper. After the trek, we tipped our young guides Tk200. Our driver waited for us at the entry point, and we then headed to Alikadam Bazar for a meal of paratha and fried eggs.
A final farewell
Exhausted and unable to trek back up the hill, we hired motorbikes for Tk200 to return to the resort. We spent the remainder of the evening playing music on the resort’s hanging balcony before retiring. On our last morning, we were greeted at 5am by an even more ethereal sight – a landscape completely enveloped in thick clouds and fog.
Following a breakfast of khichuri, we checked out at 10am. While the resort’s room service was average, the manager and staff were very friendly, and the food was consistently fresh and tasty.
To head back, eight of us shared a reserved Chander Gari for Tk2,400, which took us directly from the resort gate back to Chakaria. The 20-minute descent was a “bouncy journey” due to the rugged terrain.
From Chakaria, we boarded a non-AC bus for Tk100 per person, bound for Dolphin Mor in Cox’s Bazar to begin the next leg of our trip.
You can find Part 2 of our journey here.
