As Ramadan unfolds, iftar markets have sprung up across Chattogram, transforming pavements and open spaces into bustling evening bazaars.
From late afternoon, rows of temporary stalls line busy intersections, displaying colourful spreads of muri, chola, onion fritters, aubergine fritters, jilapi and bundia. By dusk, crowds of fasting customers gather to purchase the familiar delicacies that mark the breaking of the fast.
Yet amid the vibrancy and commercial rush, longstanding concerns over food quality and hygiene have resurfaced.
Regular drives by the Bangladesh Food Safety Authority and the district administration have, over the years, uncovered irregularities in open-market food preparation. Allegations of mixing urea with puffed rice are not new and continue to circulate. There are also complaints about the repeated reuse of cooking oil for frying chola and various fritters, as well as the alleged use of a chemical locally known as “hydros” to enhance crispiness.
A visit to Chawkbazar painted a vivid picture of the seasonal trade. From the main intersection through adjacent lanes, large cauldrons bubbled continuously. Pots of spiced chola simmered, trays of jilapi and bundia gleamed in syrup, and onion and aubergine fritters crackled in darkened oil. The press of customers made it difficult to move.
Md Rafiq, a vendor, said business during Ramadan increases fourfold. “We heat the oil in the morning and continue frying until iftar. If the colour becomes too dark, we replace some of it,” he said.
At several stalls, however, food was displayed beside open drains and covered only with makeshift sheets. Workers handled items without gloves or head coverings. One vendor admitted that managing heavy crowds while wearing gloves made selling more difficult.
Similar scenes were visible from Bahaddarhat intersection along adjoining roads, where temporary stalls have also appeared. Large pans of oil were used repeatedly to fry potato chops and onion fritters, while brightly coloured drinks were kept in uncovered jugs nearby.
One trader said rising prices make it impossible to replace all cooking oil daily.
Customers, meanwhile, acknowledge the trade-off between convenience and risk. Rokshana Begum, a regular buyer, said it is not feasible to prepare every iftar item at home. “At least the food should be properly covered,” she added.
The concerns extend beyond oil usage. The Consumers Association of Bangladesh Central Committee Vice President SM Nazer Hossain said “hydros” is primarily a chemical used in textile processing and is readily available in Khatunganj market. There have been allegations that some jilapi producers use it, although recent drives have not uncovered direct evidence of harmful chemical use.
Additional allegations include the use of unauthorised textile dyes or artificial colouring in bundia and similar sweets. Food safety experts stress that no matter how appealing it looks, food prepared in unclean surroundings cannot be considered safe.
According to those concerned with monitoring, the safety of open-market iftar items rests on two primary factors: the quality and safety of ingredients including any additives or chemicals, and the conditions under which food is prepared and stored.
Nazer Hossain emphasised that food safety must be ensured at every stage, from production to serving, from the farmer’s field to the consumer’s table. In practice, however, many iftar items in open markets remain exposed for hours before purchase.
For many, iftar is not merely a meal but a deeply rooted ritual of Ramadan. The brightly arranged spreads across Chattogram’s streets reflect both tradition and commerce. Whether they consistently meet acceptable safety standards, however, remains an open question.
