As the spring equinox arrives in China, farmers in the rolling hills surrounding Hangzhou’s West Lake have commenced the annual harvest of Longjing, one of the countries’ most revered green teas.
Literally translated as “Dragon Well,” Longjing tea has been a recognisable name among connoisseurs since the 18th Century, when the Qianlong Emperor bestowed imperial status upon 18 tea bushes, reports BBC.
Today, the harvest remains a critical seasonal window where timing and terroir must align to produce the prized leaves.
The quest for quality
In Longwu Tea Village, fourth-generation tea grower Ge Xiaopeng monitors the growth of his crop closely. The harvest begins when leaves reach a standard length of 2.5cm.
The earliest flushes, known as the mingqian tier, are plucked before the Qingming solar term and are the most coveted for their delicate, understated flavour and chestnut aroma.
The value of these early batches has reached unprecedented levels. According to Xiaopeng, 500g of the earliest mingqian leaves from his family farm can fetch upwards of 30,000 yuan (approximately £3,250).
This price surge is attributed to rising labour costs and a growing gap between supply and demand. Later harvests, referred to as yuqian, occur before the Guyu solar term in late April, when warmer temperatures and heavier rainfall result in a bolder, more bitter profile.
Tradition versus automation
A defining characteristic of genuine Longjing is the pan-firing process, which halts oxidation and shapes the leaves into their signature spear form. While many farmers have turned to machines to handle this labour-intensive task, traditionalists like Xiaopeng’s father, Ge Zhenghua, continue to fire leaves by hand in woks heated to 200°C.
Zhenghua, who performs the work without gloves to better sense the heat and moisture, maintains that “hands can decipher what machines cannot”. He notes that hand-fired tea possesses a fuller-bodied fragrance and a more lingering sweetness compared to machine-processed versions.
Protecting the heritage
The reputation of Longjing has led to a persistent counterfeit market, making genuine batches harder to identify. In response, the Chinese government has designated a specific 168-sq-km region for authentic West Lake Longjing. Verified growers are now issued a limited number of authentication stickers featuring QR codes that link to a traceability system.
This renewed focus on authenticity coincides with the guochao movement, a trend where younger Chinese consumers are increasingly drawn to traditional heritage products.
This cultural shift is also encouraging the younger generation to return to tea villages. Zhenghua’s own son is among those learning the ancestral craft to ensure the knowledge does not die out.
For those seeking to taste the “real thing,” experts suggest visiting Hangzhou between mid-March and early April. Local institutions such as the China National Tea Museum, the Suye Tea Institute, and the Ge family’s Yige Tea House offer demonstrations and tastings to educate the public on the tea’s subtle personality.
As tea instructor Chen Yifang explains, Longjing is a ritual that rewards patience: “You must spend time sitting with it before it reveals its personality”.
