Dermatologists and academics are raising alarm over a burgeoning trend known as “cosmeticorexia,” a term used to describe an unhealthy obsession with achieving “flawless” skin through the obsessive use of cosmetic products by children as young as primary school age.
The phenomenon, fueled by social media “get ready with me” (GRWM) videos, has seen young girls – some aged only three or four – enthusiastically promoting sophisticated multi-step skincare routines, reports BBC.
This shift has transformed the lives of some families; for instance, 13-year-old influencer Ellie-May, who has been using and advertising skincare since age eight, now helps generate over £50,000 a year for her family through accounts across TikTok, Facebook, YouTube, and Snapchat.
Health risks and ‘retinol burn’
Medical professionals are increasingly concerned about the physical toll these products take on delicate young skin.
Dr Jean Ayer, an NHS consultant and private dermatologist, noted that while children naturally possess the “glass skin” many adults seek, they are now presenting with severe reactions to products designed for the anti-ageing market.
“At best, they don’t need these products. At worst, they contain harmful ingredients that can damage delicate young skin,” Dr Ayer said.
Ingredients such as retinol, which speeds up cell turnover to reduce wrinkles in adults, can overstimulate a child’s skin, leading to “retinol burn,” long-term sensitivity, and contact dermatitis.
There is also a growing concern amongst dermatologists that the early application of face creams may be linked to frontal fibrosing alopecia, a condition where the hairline recedes.
Regulatory scrutiny
The industry, now a multi-billion-pound market, is facing increased scrutiny.
The Italian Competition Authority (AGCM) has launched investigations into LVMH, owner of the Sephora and Benefit brands, to determine if they used “covert marketing strategies” involving young micro-influencers and failed to clarify that products are not intended for children.
LVMH has stated it is cooperating with authorities and maintains strict compliance with regulations, asserting they only work with influencers over the age of 18.
The Advertising Standards Authority (ASA) in UK confirmed it is monitoring these developments closely, though no formal regulatory action has been initiated yet.
Psychological impact
Beyond physical damage, experts warn of lasting psychological effects. Alberto Stefana, a psychologist, and Professor Giovanni Damiani at University of Milan, found that children obsessed with skincare often spend hours on social media and may refuse to socialise without make-up.
Stefana warned that this obsession can overlap with body dysmorphic disorder (BDD), causing intense shame and anxiety.
“The filters and the use of AI on social media posts mean some of the images children are seeing are not even real, so they are aspiring to something that does not even exist,” Stefana added.
Industry and parent response
While some brands like Drunk Elephant state they are not “youth-focused” and aim to educate customers in responsible use, other popular brands such as Bubble and P Louise did not respond to requests for comment.
The Cosmetics Toiletry and Perfumery Association (CTPA) has released a guide for parents, noting that 40% of parents admit to knowing less about skincare than their children.
Dr Emma Meredith, director-general of the CTPA, emphasised that the organisation does not support young people using anti-ageing products or complex, unnecessary routines.
Ellie-May’s mother, Sophie, maintains that she checks all ingredients and prevents her daughter from using harmful chemicals like retinol.
The pair are currently preparing to launch their own vegan skincare brand specifically targeted at the younger market.
