The global mountaineering community is in mourning following the confirmed death of Nirmal Purja, the record-breaking climber who dedicated his career to spotlighting Nepal’s Sherpa community. Purja was killed on Saturday after a devastating avalanche struck his expedition on Broad Peak in northern Pakistan.
The 43-year-old former British Army soldier was among a group of 10 mountaineers who went missing on Thursday when a landslide hit the 8,047-metre-tall peak around midday, reports CNN.
The Alpine Club of Pakistan confirmed on Sunday that while Purja’s body and seven others have been located, they have yet to be retrieved due to treacherous conditions. Two climbers remain missing.
Other fatalities confirmed in the disaster include Omani mountaineer Nadhira Al Harthy, US climber Sarah Mallory Geis, and Nepali climber Pur Bahadur Gurung, known as “Yukta”. The Nimsdai Foundation, established by Purja in 2022, also named Nima Sherpa as the fifth confirmed victim.
Rescue efforts are being led by renowned Pakistani mountaineer Sirbaz Khan, the first Pakistani to summit all 14 “eight-thousanders” without supplementary oxygen.
Khan, who described Purja as a neighbour and student, told CNN that the mission is extremely high-risk, with two or three avalanches occurring daily. He believes the only safe method to retrieve the remaining climbers is via “long line” helicopter operations.
Purja made history in 2019 by summiting all 14 of the world’s peaks over 8,000 metres in just over six months, a feat that brought him international acclaim. He was frequently described as “fearless” by his peers for making the impossible happen.
Beyond his records, Purja sought to use his global platform to ensure Sherpas received proper recognition for their elite climbing skills. The Karakoram range, where Broad Peak is situated, is notorious for unpredictable weather and frequent rockslides.
Mountain photographer Tehsin Razi noted that while the optimal climbing window is typically mid-to-late July, current conditions on the mountain have become significantly more dangerous.
In a statement, the Nimsdai Foundation said Purja’s legacy would “live on in the countless lives he changed and the people he inspired to climb their own mountains”.
